Shit quality is the new normal in Western brands, too

My brutal opinion on 'iconic' brands with heritage

Western brands that have existed since the good ol'times usually have the reputation of being sturdy and proper, made for living in the grit and withstanding harsh weather conditions. If you still believe that BS and blow your hard-earned money on the 'iconic' brands, believing you'll end up owning a quality piece for years, it might be time to rethink that. Sad but true - most of the pieces made by those notable brands fall into the categories of fast fashion and have a very short lifespan.

Levi's, founded 1853

How on Earth do people still buy full-priced jeans at Levi's? The last time I checked (and fell for it) was about 3 years ago -501s cost £110 and said pair no longer exists in my closet. Though I chose 100% cotton and they felt quite thick, the back pocket (where I carry my phone) had two holes after a month. Levi's advertises their jeans with a 'Live in' slogan - but it's just marketing.

...as long as they're made at least 30 years ago

Whatever's produced now, can't even stand close to any pair from the past, even the 90s. The thickness of the cotton used, questionable stitching and riveting, the way they stretch and lose their shape in knees - they're clearly ripping us off on quality. On top of that, Levi's is far from being a sustainable, responsible brand - reports have surfaced accusing Levi's suppliers of poor working conditions and unfair wages, especially in developing countries. Are all Levi’s pieces equally bad? Probably not. Occasionally, limited lines or special editions might uphold the quality standards of the past - but these are the exception rather than the rule.

Wrangler, founded 1947

The day I spotted Wrangler socks in my local Lidl I completely lost my trust in this brand. They can try playing it cool with all those desert-inspired co-ord suits or Lainey Wilson sunshine photos, but their modern wares fall short of the quality they're famous for (at least in Europe).

Modern Wrangler jeans don't differ from those at Primark - they're stretchy, thin and the cuts are so awkwardly bulky. Like Levi's, who have different lines of products, with 'better' quality, Wrangler has a Blue Bell collection and - that's a quote from their website: The iconic collection is a must-have for those who demand nothing but the best. Blue Bell is the old Wrangler name, introduced in 1904 and if you know a little about vintage denim, you'll know that any old Wrangler item with a Blue Bell logo is a gem. In this new collection, they're playing on that heritage, representing the premium quality that the brand was known for prior to its widespread commercial production.

Lee, founded 1889

Alhough Lee has been established in 1889 in Kansas, it wasn’t until 1912 that they started producing garments - overalls and work jackets. They’ve reached iconic status in the 1950s and 60s, especially known for their classic denim Rider jackets, worn by James Dean, Paul Newman or Steve McQueen.

Today, Lee is part of the same corporation as Wrangler and their modern garments consistently don’t match the durability and craftsmanship of their iconic vintage pieces. Just like Levi’s and Wrangler, they’re also not taking adequate steps to ensure payment of a living wage for its workers.

Filson, founded 1897

Filson once stood as a brand producing durable clothing made to last especially in the harsh outdoors and their old tagline read: “Might as well have the best.''

But recently they've notably spiralled down on quality. Their traditional aesthetic, characterised by heavy-duty materials like wool, has been partially lost as they replaced it with polyester, nylon and synthetic fleece. Though they're advertising as American-made, it's only partially true - only some of their items are made in Seattle. They moved their production overseas, including Italy, Mexico and China.

Stetson, founded 1865

Yes, I am proudly wearing their hats - their quality is top-notch. So why have I placed them in this category?

Well, apart from hats, Stetson also produces boots, accessories and apparel and the latter isn't anything special. They're secretive about the whereabouts of their factories, but all of the items on their American website are marked as imported. Their 'ultra soft denim' doesn't feel sturdy at all and won't last long.

Double D Ranch, founded 1989

Double D Ranch dresses celebrities and famous folks alike. They've been on my radar for a while because they often play with traditional styles and designs, such as this Mexican souvenir jacket or Geronimo-inspired jacket (below). They're not my cup of tea, but that's purely personal - I prefer the real deal vintage gem.

Their items ooze Texas luxury with prices for even the most basic long-sleeve top starting from $185. On the 'Our Story' section on their page, they cleverly state that 'Every collection includes luxurious fabrics' but that's just a trick - said $185 top is made of 65% polyester and 25% spandex and so are many of their shirts and dresses.

Brands I'd invest in

H Bar C, founded 1905

They're iconic - worn by Elvis, Johnny Depp, Salvador Dali and many more. I love how they continue to produce their timeless designs, now updated in new versions. The majority of their new shirts are now made with Tencel, but their pants often feature stretchy polyester blends. I own Franklin pants and I don’t recommend these.

Image source: hbarc.com

Schott NYC, founded 1913

Similar to H Bar C, they've been around for over 100 years and have been loved by the likes of James Dean, Joan Jett and Marlon Brando. Their leather jackets with motorcycle and western spin are still produced in Manhattan, ''same as it ever was.''

WestMajor, founded 2020

They're a small, but really cool brand focusing on quality rather than quantity. All their shirts and workwear are made in the US in small batches (some made to order), they're clear about the fabric and its weight and on top of that, they offer free repairs for life. Their prices are also so good!

Image source: westmajor.com

Freenote Cloth, founded 2012

Inspired by the authentic American culture and its timeless style icons, Freenote produces menswear, all cut, sewn and finished in California. Founded by two brothers, they pay close attention to the fit of their garments and use only high-quality fabrics.

image source: Freenote Cloth's Pinterest

The Real McCoy’s, founded 1990

A Japanese brand that simply gets things right. The brand specialises in reproducing garments from the early 20th century, such as denim workwear, military outfits and 1940s and 1950s-style Americana clothing. They're masters of replicating vintage western and workwear true to their original details but using luxe materials and a modern fit.